Posted on July 3, 2022 at 4:00 PM
For fifteen years, the Canadian of Turkish origin Erdem Moralioglu, founder of Erdem, imagined a romantic feminine silhouette, often recognizable by its floral motifs. At the end of 2021 he presented a men’s collection: “I imagined that my muse had a little brother, who would wear his clothes his way.” In 36 silhouettes photographed against a threatening sky and a rough sea – the beach of West Wittering in the south of England – he paints the portrait of an English dandy of today, with many revisited uniforms, borrowed from women’s clothing. and touches of soft colors that refer to the work of the painter Patrick Procktor, whose designer collects paintings and drawings.
An elegant, functional and comfortable wardrobe that reviews mohair cardigans, flowing shirts, light capes, two-tone trench coats and Jouy jumpsuits with flexible flowers. A silhouette inspired by that of the British director Derek Jarman, and more specifically in photographs of the latter posing in the middle of the pebbles in front of his fisherman’s house in Dungeness in Kent.
Michael Derek Elworthy Jarman (1942-94), English director and emblematic figure of the British underground of the 1980s.©Michael Woods/Bridgeman Images
The reference
A great subversive filmmaker and a fervent activist for homosexual rights, Derek Jarman was a figure of the British underground art of the 1980s. In 1975, he went behind the camera for the first time with the film Sebastiane, co-directed with Paul Humfress. A cinematographic UFO shot in Latin that recounts the existence of San Sebastian mixing sex and religion. Other solo films will follow like Anniversary (1977) or the angelic conversation (1985). In 1986, Derek Jarman introduced Caravaggio, inspired by the life of the Italian baroque painter, whose entire plot is based on a love triangle. This film, considered by some to be a masterpiece, marks the appearance on the screen of the young Tilda Swinton. In the same year, Derek Jarman publicly announced his HIV status and retired to his home in Dungeness, amidst a strange seaside wasteland and a spectacular power station. He will spend his last years gardening in his “Stone Garden”. He died in 1994 of AIDS at the age of 52.
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