At the Salon de la friperie, between the search for unique pieces and an eco-responsible approach

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Villeurbanne (AFP) – “I don’t want to have the same style as my neighbor”: At the Salon de la friperie, which takes place this weekend at the Puces du Canal de Lyon in Villeurbanne, several hundred second-hand fans are looking for rare clothes, while claiming to be “ecological”.

Océane Loukanta arrived at the opening on Saturday armed with a huge tote bag ready to fill.

She’s been a thrift store regular ever since she found herself at a party wearing the same dress as one of her friends, bought from a big-box fast-fashion store.

“Now I only go to thrift stores, so I’m sure I’m not buying something that everyone will have,” the 27-year-old told AFP.

“Here we dress in unique pieces,” confirms Léa Ecouffier, 21, who runs a shop at the entrance to the big blue tent under which some fifty exhibitors gather.

A saleswoman in front of her stand at the Salon de la friperie, on April 9, 2022 at Puces du Canal, in Villeurbanne, near Lyon. OLIVIER CHASSIGNOLE AFP

“Because even if we adopt this mode of consumption more and more, it is still a unique way of expressing one’s style in a world where everyone dresses the same,” he adds, with a glass of mulled wine in hand.

“For 25 years, there has been a very strong growth trend in the second-hand clothing market”, testifies Marie Vincent, coordinator of the fair.

“There has been a great boom in the last five years: seven out of ten people say they buy second-hand clothes and the sector represented seven billion euros in 2021”, illustrates the organizer of the event, where 5,700 visitors are expected.

Background music from the 80s, vintage clothing, glasses, vinyl, retro photos, old school shoes, scarves, hats, bags, jewelry…

A shopper looks at racks of second-hand clothes at the Salon de la friperie on April 9, 2022 at Puces du Canal, in Villeurbanne, near Lyon.
A shopper looks at racks of second-hand clothes at the Salon de la friperie on April 9, 2022 at Puces du Canal, in Villeurbanne, near Lyon. OLIVIER CHASSIGNOLE AFP

“I’ve always loved antiques and as my wardrobe filled up and my tastes changed, I sold,” says Saskia Boquet, a 28-year-old exhibitor and customer, who “made a deal” by unearthing a t-shirt from luxury brand Yves Saint Laurent for 15 euros.

– ‘Give new life’ –

Laure Hervieu, 58, has been a second-hand dealer for 20 years, “to offer an alternative to consumption” and “compete with fast fashion”, all “being eco-responsible”.

“We want pieces that have a history, that can be given a new life, that are of good quality and that do not deform completely after two washes,” he lists.

A second-hand glasses stand at the Salon de la friperie, on April 9, 2022 at Puces du Canal, in Villeurbanne, near Lyon.
A second-hand glasses stand at the Salon de la friperie, on April 9, 2022 at Puces du Canal, in Villeurbanne, near Lyon. OLIVIER CHASSIGNOLE AFP

Paul Couvé-Bonnaire, 24, shares this opinion. “I try to buy less and less new clothes, I prefer old but resistant pieces because, when I want to get rid of them, it could benefit others”, highlights this alternation in a tourism agency, which hopes that the show will convert new people in this trend. .

This is the case of Morgane Leblanc, 33 years old. “It’s been a while since I had to go shopping to renew my wardrobe,” explains this consulting manager.

Shoppers browse racks of second-hand clothes at the Salon de la friperie on April 9, 2022 at Puces du Canal, in Villeurbanne, near Lyon.
Shoppers browse racks of second-hand clothes at the Salon de la friperie on April 9, 2022 at Puces du Canal, in Villeurbanne, near Lyon. OLIVIER CHASSIGNOLE AFP

“I thought I was going to a big mall as usual, but reading the candidates’ programs this morning, I decided to vote” for an environmental program, he says.

“Suddenly, I said to myself + you shouldn’t go to H&M, you should go to second-hand clothes, so you’ll find an ecological garment! +”, concludes the Lyonnaise woman in front of a store mirror. in full fit.

Although “the new is still dominant at the moment,” specialist Joan Le Goff, co-author of the book “La Nouvelle jeunesse de l’occasion” with Faouzi Bensebaa, clarifies with AFP, 70% of French people say they have bought second-hand items . clothing in 2021, compared to 30% in 2018 and half in 2010, according to a study by the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM).

Buyers at the Second-hand Clothes Show, April 9, 2022 at Puces du Canal, in Villeurbanne, near Lyon
Buyers at the Second-hand Clothes Show, April 9, 2022 at Puces du Canal, in Villeurbanne, near Lyon OLIVIER CHASSIGNOLE AFP

A boost that should continue, since according to the American consignment and second-hand clothing platform “ThreadUp”, the second-hand market will be heavier than that of fast fashion in 2028.

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